I believe that in teaching young cooks one cannot begin too soon to impress upon
them the importance of appearances.
For instance, in making a mayonnaise salad, it is almost as easy to make an
elegant dish as a plain one. Why not therefore do so on every occasion? The
PRINCIPLES APPEARANCES.
lettuce, (fee, inside, the sauce made as tliick almost as buttei', and spi-ead over the
salad. A little lobstei' coral or fine-chopped green parsley, sprinkled with a few
bright green capers on the white sauce. A few little strips of red beetroot added,
and, if the salad bs a chicken one, a few slices of white chicken, stamped in the shape
of a cock's comb, placed alternately with some similar shaped pieces of red tongue,
placed round the base ; some filleted anchovies and stoned olives will be found an
improvement. What a difierence to all the ingredients being piled together in a
dish anyhow without regard to appearances.
1 will take another instance. In London, at times, in cheap eating-houses, will be
seen a window with perhaps fifty or a hundred cold roast fowls all heaped up together,
going cheap. Does it make your mouth water even if you are hungry ? No. Suppose,
however, we were to take one of these fowls, and put it on a nice bright silver dish,
and ornament it with some green double parsley, and a few thin slices of cut lemon —
the dish must be placed on a cloth as white as snow — what a difierence !
Again, look at a sirloin of beef that has got cold in the dish in wliich it was
originally cooked. The gravy has settled, and the whole joint is studded with wafers
of fat ; the edge of the dish, too, is gi'easy. Suppose some stupid servant were to bi-ing
up the joint just as it is. It is perfectly wholesome, but would it look tempting 1 On
the other hand, look at a cold sirloin on the sideboard, in a large clean dish, with
plenty of curly white horse-radish and parsley. There are to my mind few dishes
more tempting ; and yet, bear in mind, the difierence between the two is simply that
of appeai-ance.
Take, again, butter, especially in summer time ; the same butter on a smeary
plate looking like pomatum, or in a bright cut-glass dish done tip into neat little pats,
with here and there a tiny piece of parsley to set it ofi".
I have known cooks exclaim — " Oh, never mind what it looks like as long as it
tastes all right." This is, however, a great mistake. Now, in boiling fish, not only
should the cook endeavour to boil it properly, i.e., not too much or too little, but also
endeavour to make the fish white. How, you may ask, can this be done 1 By bearing
in mind that the colouring matter in fish is afiected and partially dissolved by
acids. Suppose you have a large turbot. Before putting it into the fish-kettle, all
you have to do is to rub the fat, white side of the tui-bot with a slice of lemon, the
efiect of this being to render the fish far whiter when it is taken out of the water
than it otherwise would be. Here, again, when you know the principle, it is a guide
to boiling all large fish. Of course, too, in lifting the fish out of the water, the scum
floating on the top of the water should in every case be first removed, as it would
otherwise settle on the fish, and destroy, not only the appearance, but even the flavour.
Page 12
Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
I believe that in teaching young cooks one cannot begin too soon to impress upon them the importance of appearances.
For instance, in making a mayonnaise salad, it is almost as easy to make an elegant dish as a plain one. Why not therefore do so on every occasion? The
[illustration: PRINCIPLES APPEARANCES].
lettuce, (fee, inside, the sauce made as thick almost as buttei', and spread over the salad. A little lobster coral or fine-chopped green parsley, sprinkled with a few bright green capers on the white sauce. A few little strips of red beetroot added, and, if the salad bs a chicken one, a few slices of white chicken, stamped in the shape of a cock's comb, placed alternately with some similar shaped pieces of red tongue, placed round the base ; some filleted anchovies and stoned olives will be found an improvement. What a difference to all the ingredients being piled together in a dish anyhow without regard to appearances.
1 will take another instance. In London, at times, in cheap eating-houses, will be seen a window with perhaps fifty or a hundred cold roast fowls all heaped up together, going cheap. Does it make your mouth water even if you are hungry ? No. Suppose, however, we were to take one of these fowls, and put it on a nice bright silver dish, and ornament it with some green double parsley, and a few thin slices of cut lemon — the dish must be placed on a cloth as white as snow — what a difierence !
Again, look at a sirloin of beef that has got cold in the dish in which it was originally cooked. The gravy has settled, and the whole joint is studded with wafers of fat ; the edge of the dish, too, is greasy. Suppose some stupid servant were to bring up the joint just as it is. It is perfectly wholesome, but would it look tempting 1 On the other hand, look at a cold sirloin on the sideboard, in a large clean dish, with plenty of curly white horse-radish and parsley. There are to my mind few dishes more tempting ; and yet, bear in mind, the difierence between the two is simply that of appearance.
Take, again, butter, especially in summer time ; the same butter on a smeary plate looking like pomatum, or in a bright cut-glass dish done tip into neat little pats, with here and there a tiny piece of parsley to set it ofi".
I have known cooks exclaim — " Oh, never mind what it looks like as long as it tastes all right." This is, however, a great mistake. Now, in boiling fish, not only should the cook endeavour to boil it properly, i.e., not too much or too little, but also endeavour to make the fish white. How, you may ask, can this be done 1 By bearing in mind that the colouring matter in fish is afiected and partially dissolved by acids. Suppose you have a large turbot. Before putting it into the fish-kettle, all you have to do is to rub the fat, white side of the turbot with a slice of lemon, the efiect of this being to render the fish far whiter when it is taken out of the water than it otherwise would be. Here, again, when you know the principle, it is a guide to boiling all large fish. Of course, too, in lifting the fish out of the water, the scum floating on the top of the water should in every case be first removed, as it would otherwise settle on the fish, and destroy, not only the appearance, but even the flavour.