FoodNetArchive

Cassell's dictionary of cookery

1892

Page 12

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
I believe that in teaching young cooks one cannot begin too soon to impress upon them the importance of appearances. For instance, in making a mayonnaise salad, it is almost as easy to make an elegant dish as a plain one. Why not therefore do so on every occasion? The PRINCIPLES APPEARANCES. lettuce, (fee, inside, the sauce made as tliick almost as buttei', and spi-ead over the salad. A little lobstei' coral or fine-chopped green parsley, sprinkled with a few bright green capers on the white sauce. A few little strips of red beetroot added, and, if the salad bs a chicken one, a few slices of white chicken, stamped in the shape of a cock's comb, placed alternately with some similar shaped pieces of red tongue, placed round the base ; some filleted anchovies and stoned olives will be found an improvement. What a difierence to all the ingredients being piled together in a dish anyhow without regard to appearances. 1 will take another instance. In London, at times, in cheap eating-houses, will be seen a window with perhaps fifty or a hundred cold roast fowls all heaped up together, going cheap. Does it make your mouth water even if you are hungry ? No. Suppose, however, we were to take one of these fowls, and put it on a nice bright silver dish, and ornament it with some green double parsley, and a few thin slices of cut lemon — the dish must be placed on a cloth as white as snow — what a difierence ! Again, look at a sirloin of beef that has got cold in the dish in wliich it was originally cooked. The gravy has settled, and the whole joint is studded with wafers of fat ; the edge of the dish, too, is gi'easy. Suppose some stupid servant were to bi-ing up the joint just as it is. It is perfectly wholesome, but would it look tempting 1 On the other hand, look at a cold sirloin on the sideboard, in a large clean dish, with plenty of curly white horse-radish and parsley. There are to my mind few dishes more tempting ; and yet, bear in mind, the difierence between the two is simply that of appeai-ance. Take, again, butter, especially in summer time ; the same butter on a smeary plate looking like pomatum, or in a bright cut-glass dish done tip into neat little pats, with here and there a tiny piece of parsley to set it ofi". I have known cooks exclaim — " Oh, never mind what it looks like as long as it tastes all right." This is, however, a great mistake. Now, in boiling fish, not only should the cook endeavour to boil it properly, i.e., not too much or too little, but also endeavour to make the fish white. How, you may ask, can this be done 1 By bearing in mind that the colouring matter in fish is afiected and partially dissolved by acids. Suppose you have a large turbot. Before putting it into the fish-kettle, all you have to do is to rub the fat, white side of the tui-bot with a slice of lemon, the efiect of this being to render the fish far whiter when it is taken out of the water than it otherwise would be. Here, again, when you know the principle, it is a guide to boiling all large fish. Of course, too, in lifting the fish out of the water, the scum floating on the top of the water should in every case be first removed, as it would otherwise settle on the fish, and destroy, not only the appearance, but even the flavour.