Cassell's dictionary of cookery

scalding hot, but not boiling, take it off, and pour the water into a pan, and put it away in a cold place, leaving the fish in the strainer. Place the strainer with the fish upon it oyer the pan of hot fish-water, to cool together, where it should remain until the next day, when the fish should be placed again in the fish-kettle with the same water in which it was scalded ; and when it is again warmed it is done. It must not boil. "When there is more dressed salmon than can be eaten, it is particularly good fried in batter. It should be slightly sprinkled with salt before the batter is added, and if there is any Granville sauce, a little of it put on the pieces of salmon under the batter is a great improvement. — Food Journal. We find the following account of the perfect mode of cooking salmon in Sir Humphrey Davy's " Salmonia : " — " We must now prepare him for the pot. Give him a stunningblow on the head to deprive him of sensation, and then give him a transverse cut just below the gills, and crimp him by cutting to the bone on each side, so as almost to divide him into slices, and now hold him by the tail that he may bleed. There is a small spring, I see, close under that bank, which, I daresay, has the mean temperature of the atmosphere in this climate, and is much under 50°. Place him there, and lot him remain for ten minutes, and then carry him to the pot, and let the water and salt boil furiously before you put in a slice, and give time to the water to recover its heat before you throw in another, and so with the whole fish, and leave the head out, and throw in the thickest pieces first." The rationale of this process of crimping is thus given: — "I conclude that the fat of salmon between the flakes is mixed with much albumen and gelatine, and is extremely liable to decompose, and by keeping it cool the decomposition is retarded, and by the boiling salt and water, which is of a higher temperature than that of common boiling water, the albumen is coagulated and the curdiness preserved. The crimping, by preventing the irritability of the fibre from being gradually exhausted, seems to preserve it so hard and crisp that it breaks under the teeth ; and a fresh fish not crimped is generally trout." Salmon crimped in this manner, which preserves the natural taste, should have no other sauce than a spoonful of the salt and water in which it has been boiled, with the addition of a little lemon- juice (or, if that cannot be had, vinegar) and pepper. Some persons, however, object to the curdy state of the fish, and prefer it when it has been kept a day or two, when the curd has partly softened into oil, which gives a richer taste. Salmon, Imperial Fashion (Careme's recipe) . — The fish being cleaned, throw salt in the inside, and rub some on the outside ; three hours after wash it in several waters, drain and ■wipe it, and fill the interior with a forcemeat of whitings. Keep the fish in its first shape, and lay it "in a fish-kettle with a duxelles moistened with two bottles of champagne wine (the head should be tied) and as much fish stock.