FoodNetArchive

Cassell's dictionary of cookery

1892

Page 32 · 2 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Take two large copper stewpans, and see that they are perfectly well tinned. Butter the bottom of each, and cover them with slices of thin lean ham, then add the veal previously saved, placing half in each stew|ian, and put in one stewpan the carcases of some wild rabbits, the best part of the meat of the rabbit being resei'ved for some entrees, and in the other stewpan an old hen or the carcases of some fowls. The stewpan in which the rabbits have been placed is intended for the brown sauce, and the one in which the fowl has been placed for the white sauce. Pour m sufficient of the stock previously made to cover the meatBrown Sauce, and place the two ste^vpans on the fire, of course covered, to boil quickly. We now have to subject the contents of these two stewpans to a process very similar to the brown and white roux, viz., we have to allow one to cook till it turns a bright golden colour, and we have to remove the other from the fire just before it begins to alter in appearance. First, the brown sauce : what is necessary is to allow it to boil away till it becomes PRINCI PLES STOCK. a sort of gum, wliich \vdll gradually turn a beautiful reddish-brown; the great difficulty being for the cook to know when to slacken the heat of the fii-e. If the stewpan be allowed to remain on the fire too long, the glaze, for such is the stock when boiled down to a gummy consistency called, will become burnt, and the flavour of the stock very much destroyed. On the other hand, if the cook does not allow the stewpan to remain on the fire long enough, the proper colour will not be obtained, and the result will be that in order to attain that colour recourse will be had to colouring of some kind or another, which should always be avoided if possible. The cook consequently must cai-efully watch, and as soon as the glaze begins to tux-n colour must slacken the heat, and allow the glaze to gradually deepen in colour till it has that reddish-brown appearance we have desciibed; then fill up the stewpan with some common stock, and add to it a couple of onions in which a few cloves have been stuck, a carrot, a small piece of mace, some parsley, green onions, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme. Let all this simmer gently, taking cai*e to skim it from time to time after gently boiling for about two hours, strain the whole through a sieve, and put it by for use, removing every particle of fat when the stock has got cold. The white sauce being treated and added to in exactly a similar mamier, with the one exception that the glaze is not allowed to turn colour. Thus, the sauces should be quite clear, though it will often happen that perfect clearness has not been attained ; the clearing process we will consequently describe by-and-by. Sauces are, however, seldom required bright and liquid ; the bro^vn roux and white roux must consequently be added respectively to the brown sauce and white sauce to render them the requisite thickness. Having added the roux to each in suflicient quantity to obtain the desired consistency, recollect to allow them to boil a sufiicient time for the butter contained in the roux to be thrown up, and removed by skimming. Both sauces can then be sent through a tamis or cloth, and put by for use, this last process rendering theni smooth and more velvety in appearance.