croquettes in wliicli the insides are moist there must be a limit to size. If
very moist, tliey must be small ; indeed, a middling-sized walnut should be the
limit, for it is evident that the strength of material of a thin film composed of
coagulated egg would not be sufficient to overcome the force of gravity alone
of a moist mass, the tendency of which is of course to become level. The best
form indeed to make these ci'oquettes is cutlet-shape, or, as we have before
described, the shape of an oval jiicnic biscuit. My own experience is that this
shape is less liable to break than any other, besides which, when arranged round
on a dish with plenty of fried parsley, by placing a tiny claw of a crab or
lobster — one of the small ends of the lesser legs, not the pincers — a very orna-
mental red handle can be made to the cutlet to represent the bone.
While we are speaking generally on the subject of entrees, we would wish
to compi'ise under that heading savoury dishes in general ; and just as in soups
and gravies we called attention to the importance of having brown roux or brown
thickening constantly at hand, so, too, in any establishment where savoury dishes
are liked would we call attention to the importance of the cook's always having
ready to hand a small bottle of what is usually called aromatic spices for season-
ing. The advantage of having these spices ready is that an enormous amount
of trouble is saved by having them at hand, and as they will keep for years,
and a small bottle lasts almost for ever, a little exertion on the part of the cook
on some day when she has little to do will have the very beneficial result of
improving the cooking of the house for years afterwards.
Before explaining how these herbs are made, I would mention a few of their,
if not every-day, at any rate weekly, uses. Take the very common case of a
rump-steak pie, or that exceedingly nice, and when larks are cheap by no means
expensive, dish — lark pudding. Now the addition of a very small pinch of these
flavouring herbs makes a difference in the flavour of the pie or pudding in ques-
tion that is almost incredible ; and yet when the herbs are made this improve-
ment of flavour is made at a cost so small as to be scarcely appreciable. The
flavour it gives to the lark pudding is particularly marked, bringing out, as it
does, a gamey flavour, which, considering the exceedingly small quantity put in,
will give the cook a very good notion of the power these spices possess. Again,
they are of the greatest value in making varioiis kinds of forcemeats for preserving
game, such as hare or grouse. These herbs are best made as follows : — Take
half an oimce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, one ounce of white peppercorns,
and one ounce of cloves; half an ounce each of marjoram, thyme, and basil, and
a quarter of an ounce of bay-leaves✪ Aromatic Spices. Have all these herbs and spices thorovighly
dried, wrapping them up in several sheets of paper, one over the other, in order
to avoid the goodness evaporating, and then have them thoroughly pounded as
quickly as possible, and sifted through a fine sieve, and put in a glass-stoppered
bottle for use. These herbs can be used for a variety of purposes, and are par-
ticularly \iseful in flavouring all kinds of forcemeats — especially when such force-
meat is made from calf's liver or calf's udder.
Page 68 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
croquettes in which the insides are moist there must be a limit to size. If very moist, they must be small ; indeed, a middling-sized walnut should be the limit, for it is evident that the strength of material of a thin film composed of coagulated egg would not be sufficient to overcome the force of gravity alone of a moist mass, the tendency of which is of course to become level. The best form indeed to make these croquettes is cutlet-shape, or, as we have before described, the shape of an oval picnic biscuit. My own experience is that this shape is less liable to break than any other, besides which, when arranged round on a dish with plenty of fried parsley, by placing a tiny claw of a crab or lobster — one of the small ends of the lesser legs, not the pincers — a very ornamental red handle can be made to the cutlet to represent the bone.
While we are speaking generally on the subject of entrees, we would wish to comprise under that heading savoury dishes in general ; and just as in soups and gravies we called attention to the importance of having brown roux or brown thickening constantly at hand, so, too, in any establishment where savoury dishes are liked would we call attention to the importance of the cook's always having ready to hand a small bottle of what is usually called aromatic spices for seasoning. The advantage of having these spices ready is that an enormous amount of trouble is saved by having them at hand, and as they will keep for years, and a small bottle lasts almost for ever, a little exertion on the part of the cook on some day when she has little to do will have the very beneficial result of improving the cooking of the house for years afterwards.
Before explaining how these herbs are made, I would mention a few of their, if not everyday, at any rate weekly, uses. Take the very common case of a rump steak pie, or that exceedingly nice, and when larks are cheap by no means expensive, dish — lark pudding. Now the addition of a very small pinch of these flavouring herbs makes a difference in the flavour of the pie or pudding in question that is almost incredible ; and yet when the herbs are made this improvement of flavour is made at a cost so small as to be scarcely appreciable. The flavour it gives to the lark pudding is particularly marked, bringing out, as it does, a gamey flavour, which, considering the exceedingly small quantity put in, will give the cook a very good notion of the power these spices possess. Again, they are of the greatest value in making various kinds of forcemeats for preserving game, such as hare or grouse. These herbs are best made as follows : — Take half an oimce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, one ounce of white peppercorns, and one ounce of cloves; half an ounce each of marjoram, thyme, and basil, and a quarter of an ounce of bay-leaves. Have all these herbs and spices thoroughly dried, wrapping them up in several sheets of paper, one over the other, in order to avoid the goodness evaporating, and then have them thoroughly pounded as quickly as possible, and sifted through a fine sieve, and put in a glass-stoppered bottle for use. These herbs can be used for a variety of purposes, and are particularly useful in flavouring all kinds of forcemeats — especially when such forcemeat is made from calf's liver or calf's udder.
Records on this page
Aromatic Spices