Cassell's dictionary of cookery

We now come to consider the general principles of cooking to be observed in the preparation of that large class of dishes that come generally under the name of sweets, and will commence with that division of which eggs may be considered as the basis, such as rich light puddings, omelets, and souffles. Now, as the latter of these best illustrate the principles of cookery, we will commence with a short account of souffles in general. The chief point in regard to souffles is of course the lightness, and the lighter the souffle the better the cook. The whole secret of the lightness of a souffle is the amount of pains taken in beating the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. By this means, when the beaten whites are added to the batter, the whole mass contains an almost infinite number of air bubbles, that expand with the heat, and cause the whole to rise. Consequently, the greatest expedition should be used in sending the souffle to table, for of course as it cools these bubbles contract, and the souffle, which probably on leaving the oven was an inch or more above the souffle-pan, sinks to an inch below it on reaching the dining-room door. Souffles can be flavoured with cheese or even game. Small souffles made from the remains of woodcock or grouse are exceedingly nice, but great care should be taken in rubbing the flesh through the wire sieve so as to ensure the meat being, so to speak, pulverised. Another great secret of having successful omelets is to have perfectly fresh eggs. A great deal of what may be called second-class cakes are made from stale eggs, the bakers often buying stale eggs — or, as they more delicately call them, " spot eggs " — for the purpose. These eggs, when held up to the light, will be seen to have a black spot in them, showing that they are bad. However, by breaking the egg very carefully, and pouring off the best part and reserving the black spot, the egg can be used for making cakes. This black spot and a little of the egg adhering to it is of course thrown away, the smell of the black spot being exceedingly offensive, as it emits sulphuretted hydrogen gas. In breaking eggs for any purpose, it should always be borne in mind that even with the greatest care bad eggs "will occasionally make their appearance ; even when eggs are taken fresh from the nest, sometimes an old egg, that may have been overlooked for months, will by accident get mixed with the new. Consequently, always break each egg separately, or you will run the risk of having one bad egg spoil the whole lot. In making an ordinary omelet, of course the eggs are all beaten up together, yolks and whites, still, if you want a light omelet, the eggs should be beaten up till they froth. _ In breaking the eggs, avoid what cooks call " watery eggs ; " what I mean is, the white of an egg, to make a good omelet, should be of the consistency of a jelly-fish, and not look thin and run away from the yolk. Tlie butter in the omelet-pan on the fire should also be frothed before the eggs are added, and the cook should stir quickly and scrape as fast as she can the whole of the bottom of the omelet-pan till the eggs and butter begin to set. The omelet-pan should then be withdrawn a little from the fire, the omelet shaped Ixiv cassell's dictionary of cookery.