FoodNetArchive

Cooking for profit

1886

Page 145

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
air nishies Tip into the ice chamber— and the door is opened every^ few minutes through the day. Then it has no win- dow, and the cook having excellent reasons for keeping his meat block with- in it and cutting the meats there must keep the door open while at work. It is more than probable that several hun- dreds pounds of meat and tons of ice are lost every summer through the general unhandiness and incompleteness of the refrigerating arrangements. A very bad break of this sort exists at the Balbriggan House, where the arrangements are gen- erally very good, and a stemingly perfect square room refrigerator, with ice charn- ber above, as in the preceedin'T speci- men, stands conveniently at one end of the kitchen. But when the carpenter work on this one was nearly finished, it | happened that no sawdust could be ob- ] tained. As it was winter dme there was ' no immediate need experienced ; the re- frigerator was finished up without either sawdust or charcoal being filled in the double wall and it remains so still, serv- ing as a receptacle to melt away from two to three tons of ice each week with very little effect in cooling anything in the heated season. These one-room refrigerators are, how- ever, not the sort to have unless there can be more than one -or two of them in a house, each devoted to a different pur- pose. The great International Cafe had to undergo two changes of proprietors and be partly remodeled within before it ever became the successful restaurant where elaborate little meals made up of the most diverse orders of viands could be obtained in a reasonably short time after the order was given. There being no room and no calculations made_ in the building for a convenient refrigerator a number of small ice boxes were first resorted to, set in all sorts of out of the way corners, one holding one thmg and another something else, and it often happened that every one of them would have to be visited before the required articles were put together. A cook can perhaps travel twelve miles up and down stairs in twelve hours or sixteen miles through several halls and passages^ and back again in sixteen hours if he is re- quired to do so, but he cannot cook many dinners at the same time. Thus it was when the waiters would come rushing into the kitchen singing : "Hey; where's my order? Where's the cook?" The vegetable woman would answer: "The cook? he's gone a travel- ing down to the big ice box and when he gets there he'll go excavating through the ice to find something, but I guess he'll be back in half an hour." When the source of trouble at length became fully understood at the Interna- tional Cafe, something was pullsd down and a refrigerator .half as long as the kitchen was built along the wall opposite the range with so many compartments that it was hardly possible for an o^der to come that the material could not be found in one of these drawers. Since that time, instead of one cook and a losing business, the cafe has kept six or eight busy, and had a profitable career. Quail. Steaks. Cutlets. Fish. Frogs. Crab Croquettes. Tripe. Brains.