The extent of the impression made by Careme upon the English cooks and con- fectioners, then, might almost be meas- ured by the frequency of the dishes in aspic and the offers of brilliant sweet jellies among the confections for sale in the shops ; the prevalence of the German methods by the frequency of the waxen Neptunes, dolphins, forests and flowers worked on the stands which hold up the dishes at any elaborate exhibition of culinary skill. The essential part of the cookery, that which affects the eatable part of the dishes cannot in thenatureof things differ much, it is only a divergence of externals and it has to be said of the dishes in jelly that they are at least all eatable, the savory ornaments even more so perhaps than the meat itself. If there could be an American dis- tinctive style it would be marked by the use of fruit jellies, cranberry sauce and jelly with game, apples, pears and peaches m compotes and pickles sweet as well as sour, such things as Careme had an inklingof when he built up his *'supremes of truits" — pyramidal forms of fruits pre- served whole and decorated with straw- erries and green angelica. But the simple style of individual ser- ice now so universally employed while it brings into use a great number of small dishes, glasses and silver-ware almost precludes the use of any method of orna- mentation beyond such borders and sprinklings as may be formed in the act of dishing the food. 693— ro Make Calf's Foot Jelly. For reasons named in the preceding article if in England or France we write jelly it is understood first to mean gela- tine jelly, whether savory like the jelly o head-cheese or sweet and wine flavored, but in the United States it is taken to mean jellied fruits. So if we find our- selves at some country resort where the landlady and all her maidservants are busy making currant, gooseberry, rasp- berry and apple jellies to put away for winter use and we have to make at the same time ornamental clear jelly of Car- eme's own sort with which to decorate a birthday supper table, we must call it calf s foot jelly, lest there be an impres- sion that we have been surreptitiously dipping into the wrong kettles. To make the jelly really of calves feet as it used to be forty or fifty years ago, you first put on 2 feet in 4 quarts 01 water, simmer for 6 or 8 hours, and the feet will be so nearly dissolved that the liquor that remains — which will measure about 2 quarts when strained off— will set in strong jelly when cold. It has then to be freed from fat, sweetened, spiced and clarified✪ Calf's Foot Jelly in all respects the same as thegelatine jelly of Nos. 465 and 466; that is if to be a lemon or other sweet jelly, but if to be savory jelly it will be seasoned something like a savory dish of meat, 694 — Mow to Serve Colored Jollies— F^ve Ways. 1. Pour the jelly (No. 465 ;) when made into soup plates or bright pans quite shallow. Set on ice. Cut it m diamond shapes when^ set, and put one piece of each color in small stem glasses, get three glass cake stands, set one on tl e other, they being of three sizes ; set the glasses of jelly upon them for a pyramid of jelly for the center oi the table. 2. Cut the jelly in diamonds or squares and serve in ice cream saucers individu- ally with cake.

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The extent of the impression made by Careme upon the English cooks and con- fectioners, then, might almost be meas- ured by the frequency of the dishes in aspic and the offers of brilliant sweet jellies among the confections for sale in the shops ; the prevalence of the German methods by the frequency of the waxen Neptunes, dolphins, forests and flowers worked on the stands which hold up the dishes at any elaborate exhibition of culinary skill. The essential part of the cookery, that which affects the eatable part of the dishes cannot in thenatureof things differ much, it is only a divergence of externals and it has to be said of the dishes in jelly that they are at least all eatable, the savory ornaments even more so perhaps than the meat itself. If there could be an American dis- tinctive style it would be marked by the use of fruit jellies, cranberry sauce and jelly with game, apples, pears and peaches m compotes and pickles sweet as well as sour, such things as Careme had an inklingof when he built up his *'supremes of truits" — pyramidal forms of fruits pre- served whole and decorated with straw- erries and green angelica. But the simple style of individual ser- ice now so universally employed while it brings into use a great number of small dishes, glasses and silver-ware almost precludes the use of any method of orna- mentation beyond such borders and sprinklings as may be formed in the act of dishing the food. 693— ro Make Calf's Foot Jelly. For reasons named in the preceding article if in England or France we write jelly it is understood first to mean gela- tine jelly, whether savory like the jelly o head-cheese or sweet and wine flavored, but in the United States it is taken to mean jellied fruits. So if we find our- selves at some country resort where the landlady and all her maidservants are busy making currant, gooseberry, rasp- berry and apple jellies to put away for winter use and we have to make at the same time ornamental clear jelly of Car- eme's own sort with which to decorate a birthday supper table, we must call it calf s foot jelly, lest there be an impres- sion that we have been surreptitiously dipping into the wrong kettles. To make the jelly really of calves feet as it used to be forty or fifty years ago, you first put on 2 feet in 4 quarts 01 water, simmer for 6 or 8 hours, and the feet will be so nearly dissolved that the liquor that remains — which will measure about 2 quarts when strained off— will set in strong jelly when cold. It has then to be freed from fat, sweetened, spiced and clarified in all respects the same as thegelatine jelly of Nos. 465 and 466; that is if to be a lemon or other sweet jelly, but if to be savory jelly it will be seasoned something like a savory dish of meat, 694 — Mow to Serve Colored Jollies— F^ve Ways. 1. Pour the jelly (No. 465 ;) when made into soup plates or bright pans quite shallow. Set on ice. Cut it m diamond shapes when^ set, and put one piece of each color in small stem glasses, get three glass cake stands, set one on tl e other, they being of three sizes ; set the glasses of jelly upon them for a pyramid of jelly for the center oi the table. 2. Cut the jelly in diamonds or squares and serve in ice cream saucers individu- ally with cake.

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