FoodNetArchive

Cooking for profit

1886

Page 352

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
For a ladies' lunch party in a fashionable New York hotel, a novel idea was introduced. Roses were frozen in a large cake of ice, which was placed on a mat of smilax. The effect was as if these were standing in water. A TINY — very tiny — pig was served at a fashionable dinner, the other evening; and when he was placed on the table a howl went up from the assembled rank and fashion surrounding him. The little beast stood on his own hoofs in the midst of a bed of Marshal Neil roses; in his rosy snout was the customary lemon, and twisted in his small tail was a blue pond lily! How her chef accomplished this feat the hostess refused to divulge, and though pork as not usually admitted, in any form, into good society, Mr. Piggy — who w^as pronounced too sweet for any- thing— was duly cut up and tasted, and the health of the Chinese cook duly drank in champagne. A COSTLY DINNER. Count Horace de Viel-Castel, whose memoirs were recently pub- lished, was a decided gourmand. He made a bet once that he would eat a dinner, the cost of which would not be less than 500 fr. The menu, which he prepared for the occasion, was as follows: Potage a I'essence de gibier. Laitances de carpe au Xeres. Cailles desossees en caisse. Truite de lac de Geneve. Faisan roti barde d'ortolans. Pvramide de truffes entieres. Compote de fruits et stilton. VIKS. Tokay, johannisberg, glace, clos-vougeot 1819, chjpre de la Commanderie. He won the wager, going about a hundred francs above the stipulated price. He left not a remnant of any dish, nor a drop of wine, and, strange to say, was able to spend the rest of the evening with Earl Granville at the British Embassy. WINE SERVICE. The proper service of wines is a study of itself, but we may say generally that sherry should be poured with the soup, white wines with the fish, champagne with the roast and claret all through the din- ner. Choice Burgundy comes in with the game, and a glass of fine Madeira finishes the dinner. Liquors and brandy are offered with or after the coffee. It is the pleasant custom now to offer mineral waters with the wine. AppoUinaris has been called the Presidential beverage since the days of Mrs. Hayes, and for those who can not drink wine it is a very good substitute. Kitchen gossips say that $6,000 worth of unused "stuff" was taken from Vanderbilt's house the day after the ball. In a corner of those magnificent markets of Paris, called Halles Cen- tralles, you may behold a strange COOKING FOR PROFIT, 209 sight every morning between six o'clock and noon. Half a dozen large stalls there, bright with gilding and varnish, luxurious with marble, well- furnished, with lusty shop girls, display the remnant of yesterday's banquet — plates of soup; bits of fish half picked, with the sauce still round them ; fragments of pates and sweets ; liquefied ices; fragments of game; and costly viands formless, heaped together. These are the leavings of a grand restaurant or a ministerial dinner, sold by the officer to whom such perquisities belong. Too proud is he to touch them himself; but round the counter you will see a few workmen, mostly red - nosed and shaggy, the wives of many more, and a crush of threadbare individuals of that class one would rather see by daylight than by dark. It is not that these broken meats, as far as I have noticed, are particularly cheap.