FoodNetArchive

Cooking for profit

1886

Page 77

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Cost of material — The same as Nes- selrode, or about 60c per quart, depend- ing somewhat upon the cost of the can- died fruit and curacoa or their substi- tutes. 227- -Neapolitan Ice Cream or Pocchi. Occhi Make 3 colors of ice cream or 2 creams and 1 water ice m different freezers, and when they are frozen medium hard place them in layers as even as possible in a brick shaped neapolitan mould. Let the first layer, about an inch deep be of rich yellow frozen custard made with yolks of eggs and milk as already else- where directed; having pmoothed that over spread another layer an inch deep of pink strawberry ice cream or red cherry water ice or other red kind, and on that spread another layer of white ice cream, either pure cream frozen or a corn starch cream made without yolks of eggs, or else a white orange or lemon ice. Three colors of cream are to be chosen, however, in preference to any water ice when they can be had, be- cause they freeze of even density. A chocolate or caramel cream will answer instead of red. 228— Neapolitan Molds and How to Manage Them. Properly made molds have a bottom lid as well as top. They can be bought at the furnishing stores. The large es- tablishments, however, find it less trouble to use plain tin boxes almost identical in size and shape with the common wooden cigar boxes. They have a tight fitting top lid, and before being filled are lined with manilla paper, by means of which the brick of ice cream after being firmly frozen can easily be withdrawn It is an advantage to use a paper lining in whichever kind of mold may be em- ployed. Where ice is plentiful, when 72 SAN FRANCISCO HOTEL GAZETIITS the freezers have been emptied into the molds these may be placed in the same freezers, well covered down and allowed to remain the*e two or three hours to become firm. If there is the least risk of the inside not being cold enough, however, immerse the molds in a tub of pounded ice and salt by themselves. Be- fore doing so the joints of the lids should be closed, if not made tight enough with paper, by brushing with melted butter to fill up the spaces where salt might get in. When the molds have remained in the freezing mixture 2 or 3 hours wash off the outside, take out the shape of cream and wrap it in dry manilla paper and put it back in the freezer, well packed, to re- main until it is to be sliced and served. All kinds of ice creams and frozen puddings in single colros are thus frozen in bricks and served in slices. When to be served at a party table whole the stamped ornamental lid may have the fruit or flower form filled with a colored ice that will show in relief upon the plain form. These forms are served upon a folded napkin in a dish, in some cases, but are better placed in a silver dish having a drainer bottom on the plan of a butter dish. Among the labor-saving expedients to secure the ornamental tri-colored brick of cream without making different kinds the principal is the employment of the prepared vegetable colors, to be obtained of the manufacturers of flavoring extracts, by which one large freezer of ice cream may be made to take as many different hues as may be desired. Cost of molded creams — This is quite out of proportion to the cost of ingredi- ents. The extra time and labor and consumption of ice probably will be found to double the expense.