Slip stitching. Knot thread, insert needle inside of fold of cloth, and
take a long stitch. Directly opposite where needle came out, in fold on
the other side, insert needle and take a short stitch. Repeat, keepino- all
long stitches on one side and short ones on the other. After takino- sev-
eral such stitches loosely, draw them up tight. The stitches should not
show when drawn tight.
Lining. Cut lining depth of crown plus two inches wide, and the dis-
tance around head-size plus one inch long. Run a half-inch hem along
one edge of material.
Sew lining to hat, just inside the lower edge of crown, turning in
raw edges. Start to sew in center back, allowing a quarter of an inch
at beginning for seam.
Sew with short, even stitches, taking care that they do not get all
the way through to the right side and show.
24 MILLINERY IN THE HOME
Tape or baby ribbon may be run through the half-inch hem at the
top and drawn up. A plain piece of the lining may be sewed flat to
the top of the inside of crown before the ribbon is drawn. This prevents
any of the buckram frame from showing.
To cover with silk. When covering a buckram frame with silk, first ,
cover it with a thin layer of sheet wadding, taking the same care to have |
it neat and smooth that you do the outside covering. This improves the
fit of the silk and gives the hat a richer appearance.
Shirred facings. In measuring materials to make shirred facings
for hats, the length of the goods is the distance around the edge of the
brim plus an allowance for shirring. This allowance varies with the
weight of the material. The thinner the goods used, the more of it is
required.
For velvet, the length allowed is once and a half the distance around
the edge of the brim; for silk, twice the circumference of brim is needed;
for chiffon and Georgette crepe, two and one-half times the distance
around it; and for maline, five or six times. It is better to have the
material for shirring cut on the bias of the goods.
When measuring for shirring threads, mark the lines with pins, or,
if material is heavy enough, crease the lines into it. Be sure each line
is straight and that the lines are parallel, that is, equal distances apart
throughout the entire length. Take short, even stitches. Do not try to
draw one shirring thread tight until all of the threads are sewed in.
When a shirred facing is put
on the brim of a li^it, the under side
is covered first ( Fig. i ) . The edge
of the shirring is sewed flat to the
binding just over the edge of the
brim on top. Take care to distribute
J the gathers evenly around the edge.
Then pull the work down into the
head-size and run a gathering thread just inside of the crown. Draw the
gathering in to fit crown and sew firmly to inside of crown. Be careful
here again that the gathers are evenly distributed.
Then draw threads tight in shirrings between the head-size and edge
of brim. Fasten the gathering threads securely before cutting off the
ends. Sew top on as described for first hat.
A pretty finishing for the edge of the brim of a hat with a shirred
facing is a binding of satin.
MILLINERY IN THE HOME
25
FIG. 1
To cover zvith braid. When covering- a hat with braid, start at the
edge of the brim (Fig. i). The edge should be bound by a strip of the
Page 14
Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Slip stitching. Knot thread, insert needle inside of fold of cloth, and take a long stitch. Directly opposite where needle came out, in fold on the other side, insert needle and take a short stitch. Repeat, keeping all long stitches on one side and short ones on the other. After taking several such stitches loosely, draw them up tight. The stitches should not show when drawn tight.
Lining. Cut lining depth of crown plus two inches wide, and the distance around head-size plus one inch long. Run a half-inch hem along one edge of material.
Sew lining to hat, just inside the lower edge of crown, turning in raw edges. Start to sew in center back, allowing a quarter of an inch at beginning for seam.
Sew with short, even stitches, taking care that they do not get all the way through to the right side and show.
Tape or baby ribbon may be run through the half-inch hem at the top and drawn up. A plain piece of the lining may be sewed flat to the top of the inside of crown before the ribbon is drawn. This prevents any of the buckram frame from showing.
To cover with silk. When covering a buckram frame with silk, first , cover it with a thin layer of sheet wadding, taking the same care to have | it neat and smooth that you do the outside covering. This improves the fit of the silk and gives the hat a richer appearance.
Shirred facings. In measuring materials to make shirred facings for hats, the length of the goods is the distance around the edge of the brim plus an allowance for shirring. This allowance varies with the weight of the material. The thinner the goods used, the more of it is
required.
For velvet, the length allowed is once and a half the distance around the edge of the brim; for silk, twice the circumference of brim is needed; for chiffon and Georgette crepe, two and one-half times the distance around it; and for maline, five or six times. It is better to have the material for shirring cut on the bias of the goods.
When measuring for shirring threads, mark the lines with pins, or, if material is heavy enough, crease the lines into it. Be sure each line is straight and that the lines are parallel, that is, equal distances apart throughout the entire length. Take short, even stitches. Do not try to draw one shirring thread tight until all of the threads are sewed in.
When a shirred facing is put
on the brim of a li^it, the under side
is covered first ( Fig. i ) . The edge
of the shirring is sewed flat to the
binding just over the edge of the
brim on top. Take care to distribute
J the gathers evenly around the edge.
Then pull the work down into the
head-size and run a gathering thread just inside of the crown. Draw the
gathering in to fit crown and sew firmly to inside of crown. Be careful
here again that the gathers are evenly distributed.
Then draw threads tight in shirrings between the head-size and edge of brim. Fasten the gathering threads securely before cutting off the ends. Sew top on as described for first hat.
A pretty finishing for the edge of the brim of a hat with a shirred facing is a binding of satin.
FIG. 1
To cover with braid. When covering- a hat with braid, start at the edge of the brim (Fig. i). The edge should be bound by a strip of the