braid, sewing it down flat to brim
on both the top and under side of it.
Sew the braid on the upper side
of brim first, starting by laying the
edge of the braid level with the
bound edge of brim. Sew the sec-
ond row of braid lapping the free
edge of the first row. IJse a fine
running stitch for sewing on braid.
Most braid is loosely enough woven
to allow the outer edge to be stretched as it is sewed on, thus allowing it
to lie flatly against brim, avoiding wrinkles.
As the center is reached it may be necessary to run a gathering
thread through the inner edge of braid to draw it up and make it lay
flat as it is being sewed on.
The crown may be covered in two ways. The easiest way is to
have the braid running in parallel rows across the top, having the ends
finish down over the sides of the
crown (Fig. 2). They are later
covered by the braid which runs
around the side of crown covering-
it. The other method is to continue
sewing the braid on in a circular
direction until the center is reached.
The center is finished by twisting
FIG. 2 the cut end under and sewing it
down flat.
Very often a plain piece of silk covers the top of the crown, and the
sides of crovv^n and brim are covered with braid.
Lacy braids are sewed over wire frames which have been covered
by a net or chiffon of the same color.
LESSON V
THE TAM O'SHANTER
The tam is a style hat which is always fashionable and popular for
the school girl, and is most easily made of all hats.
26 MILLINERY IN THE HOME
Cut a strip of buckram one inch longer than head-size, and two and
a half inches wide. Join ends, lapping them almost an inch. Wire the
strips on the outside edges, both top and bottom. Cover it with a strip
of velvet cut on the bias and finished on the inside of band.
Cut a circle from velvet with a diameter of about twenty-one inches.
Gather the outer edge of this velvet, and sew securely to band made for
head-size. Sew it on the outside of this band, near the top edge. The
outer edge of velvet circle may be box-plaited to band instead of gath-
ered, if desired.
Line the hat as described in previous chapter. An inner lining may
be cut a little smaller than velvet and sewed on under it to give the hat
more body.
It is finished by sewing a bias band of velvet around the outside of
head-size band. The velvet band is cut four inches wide, and the edges
are hemmed with a catch-stitch. Sew it on, laying it in plaits running
around band. The joining of the ends may be finished by a flat jet orna-
ment, or a flat bow made from velvet.
A tassel may be fastened to the center of the top of the velvet, under
a flat velvet-covered button.
All seams should come in center of back.
LESSON VI
TRIMMING THE HAT
Simplicity in trimming is the keynote of fashion. It is the general
tendency of beginners to overtrim a hat. There can be no set rules
as regards trimming, for not only do the style of ornaments change every
year, but every woman requires a different type of trimming.
Wings, breast, and feathers of all kinds, if fastened to the hat at
proper angles, are good. In sewing these on, use very strong thread, sew
securely, but have the stitches hidden as much as possible.
Page 15
Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
braid, sewing it down flat to brim on both the top and under side of it. Sew the braid on the upper side of brim first, starting by laying the edge of the braid level with the bound edge of brim. Sew the second row of braid lapping the free edge of the first row. Use a fine running stitch for sewing on braid. Most braid is loosely enough woven to allow the outer edge to be stretched as it is sewed on, thus allowing it to lie flatly against brim, avoiding wrinkles.
As the center is reached it may be necessary to run a gathering thread through the inner edge of braid to draw it up and make it lay flat as it is being sewed on.
The crown may be covered in two ways. The easiest way is to have the braid running in parallel rows across the top, having the ends
finish down over the sides of the crown (Fig. 2). They are later covered by the braid which runs around the side of crown covering it. The other method is to continue sewing the braid on in a circular direction until the center is reached. The center is finished by twisting FIG. 2 the cut end under and sewing it
down flat. Very often a plain piece of silk covers the top of the crown, and the sides of crown and brim are covered with braid.
Lacy braids are sewed over wire frames which have been covered by a net or chiffon of the same color.
THE TAM O'SHANTER
The tam is a style hat which is always fashionable and popular for the school girl, and is most easily made of all hats.
Cut a strip of buckram one inch longer than head-size, and two and a half inches wide. Join ends, lapping them almost an inch. Wire the strips on the outside edges, both top and bottom. Cover it with a strip of velvet cut on the bias and finished on the inside of band.
Cut a circle from velvet with a diameter of about twenty-one inches. Gather the outer edge of this velvet, and sew securely to band made for head-size. Sew it on the outside of this band, near the top edge. The outer edge of velvet circle may be box-plaited to band instead of gathered, if desired.
Line the hat as described in previous chapter. An inner lining may be cut a little smaller than velvet and sewed on under it to give the hat more body.
It is finished by sewing a bias band of velvet around the outside of head-size band. The velvet band is cut four inches wide, and the edges are hemmed with a catch-stitch. Sew it on, laying it in plaits running around band. The joining of the ends may be finished by a flat jet ornament, or a flat bow made from velvet.
A tassel may be fastened to the center of the top of the velvet, under a flat velvet-covered button.
All seams should come in center of back.
TRIMMING THE HAT
Simplicity in trimming is the keynote of fashion. It is the general tendency of beginners to overtrim a hat. There can be no set rules as regards trimming, for not only do the style of ornaments change every year, but every woman requires a different type of trimming.
Wings, breast, and feathers of all kinds, if fastened to the hat at proper angles, are good. In sewing these on, use very strong thread, sew securely, but have the stitches hidden as much as possible.