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FORM NO. 609: 10.2,51. 100M.
THE
THOROUGH GOOD COOK
THE
THOROUGH
GOOD COOK
A SERIES OF
CHATS ON THE CULINARY ART
AND
NINE HUNDRED RECIPES
BY
GEORGE AUGUSTUS SALA
BRENTANO'S
CH1CAG0_ PARIS WASHINGTON
1896
PREFACE. — I.
To the General Reader.
Every one of tlie Kecipes in this work has been carefully
studied, and tested from personal experience, and compared
Avith cognate formulas in the culinary manuals of such
eminent authorities as Laguipiere, Beauvilliers, Ude, Careme,
Soyer, Francatelli, Urbain Dubois, Jules Goufte, Kettner,
ChandeHer (Napoleon's last chef at St. Helena), Garlin,
Suzanne, and Durand, together with the English experts,
Hunter, Kitchiner, Brand, Simpson, and Dolby. A lady
to whom I once mentioned that I had tried prac-
tically all the dishes which I have enumerated in the
following pages, observed, with a smile, half of incredulity
and half of disdainful compassion, that it was a wonder I
had not died of apoplexy years ago; and should such a
contingency suggest itself to the minds of my readers, I may
respectfully inform them that my study of the Art of Cookery
extends over a period of fifty-five years ; and that ever since
I was a boy I have been, not only theoretically but practically,
a cook. In a work of mine called " Things I have Seen and
People I have Known," I incidentally remarked that my dear
mother had all her children taught systematically to cook,
as an integral part of their education ; and that although,
from the circumstance of my having been a delicate child, I was
absolved from the ruder labours of roasting, boiling, and baking,
I was early initiated into the mysteries of preparing soups,
entrees, sauces, and sweets. Further, I may just hint that
although I fully appreciate the attributes of a gourmet, I
certainly do not wish to claim the status of a gourmand. I
delight in the genesis, as well as in the analysis and the
Ti THE THOROUGH GOOD COOK.
moderate degustation, of artistically concocted plats; but it so
happens that I have always had a very small appetite — that
my favourite dishes have been boiled chicken and rice, Irish
stew, macaroni, and haricot beans, and that for the last few
years I have been almost a vegetarian.
It is because I wish others to live "well, and to satisfy
a cultured appetite without injuring their digestion, that I
have written this book. In composing it I have kept three
objects m view. First, to avoid padding my pages with
quasi-scientific disquisitions on the chemistry of cookery.
Nothing would be easier than to tell the public that which
they have been told over and over again — that in making
the pot-aii-feu, or fundamental beef broth, the heat of the
fire swells the muscular fibres of the meat, dissolving the
gelatinous substances therein contained, and that by these
means the osmazome, which is the most savoury part of the
meat, gently adds " its unction to the broth, while the albumen,
which is the muscular part producing the scum, rises to the
surface." To harp on such a string would be not only to
waste the time but to exhaust the patience of my rea
Page 0
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
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Boston Public Library
This book is to be returned to the Library on or before the date last stamped below.
n.
1 » » f ' ■> • > 1 Q f
J AN '-«i <^'-
•
FORM NO. 609: 10.2,51. 100M.
THE
THE
THOROUGH
GOOD COOK
A SERIES OF CHATS ON THE CULINARY ART
AND
NINE HUNDRED RECIPES
BY
GEORGE AUGUSTUS SALA
BRENTANO'S
CH1CAG0_ PARIS WASHINGTON
PREFACE. — I.
To the General Reader.
Every one of tlie Kecipes in this work has been carefully studied, and tested from personal experience, and compared Avith cognate formulas in the culinary manuals of such eminent authorities as Laguipiere, Beauvilliers, Ude, Careme, Soyer, Francatelli, Urbain Dubois, Jules Goufte, Kettner, ChandeHer (Napoleon's last chef at St. Helena), Garlin, Suzanne, and Durand, together with the English experts, Hunter, Kitchiner, Brand, Simpson, and Dolby. A lady to whom I once mentioned that I had tried practically all the dishes which I have enumerated in the following pages, observed, with a smile, half of incredulity and half of disdainful compassion, that it was a wonder I had not died of apoplexy years ago; and should such a contingency suggest itself to the minds of my readers, I may respectfully inform them that my study of the Art of Cookery extends over a period of fifty-five years ; and that ever since I was a boy I have been, not only theoretically but practically, a cook. In a work of mine called " Things I have Seen and People I have Known," I incidentally remarked that my dear mother had all her children taught systematically to cook, as an integral part of their education ; and that although, from the circumstance of my having been a delicate child, I was absolved from the ruder labours of roasting, boiling, and baking, I was early initiated into the mysteries of preparing soups, entrees, sauces, and sweets. Further, I may just hint that although I fully appreciate the attributes of a gourmet, I certainly do not wish to claim the status of a gourmand. I delight in the genesis, as well as in the analysis and the
moderate degustation, of artistically concocted plats; but it so happens that I have always had a very small appetite — that my favourite dishes have been boiled chicken and rice, Irish stew, macaroni, and haricot beans, and that for the last few years I have been almost a vegetarian.
It is because I wish others to live "well, and to satisfy a cultured appetite without injuring their digestion, that I have written this book. In composing it I have kept three objects m view. First, to avoid padding my pages with quasi-scientific disquisitions on the chemistry of cookery. Nothing would be easier than to tell the public that which they have been told over and over again — that in making the pot-aii-feu, or fundamental beef broth, the heat of the fire swells the muscular fibres of the meat, dissolving the gelatinous substances therein contained, and that by these means the osmazome, which is the most savoury part of the meat, gently adds " its unction to the broth, while the albumen, which is the muscular part producing the scum, rises to the surface." To harp on such a string would be not only to waste the time but to exhaust the patience of my rea