The thorough good cook

a piece. Then do the same on the other side, and about the belly. When the scales have been taken off properly, and none are left, the carp will be white ; then take off the gills, without damaging the tongue, which is one of the most delicate parts of the fish. Make a small incision in the neck, as if you were going to cut off the head ; make another in the belly, but in a contrary direction, and as small as possible. Then with your forefinger draw out the roe, intestines, etc. Wash the carp till there is no blood left, and wipe it well ; slit both sides of the back, and let it marinade in a little oil, salt, and pepper for about an hour, or rather longer. Now lay it on a gridiron over a very slow fire, that it may have time to be well done through. When broiled on both sides, serve it with caper sauce, into which you have put a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If the carp has a soft roe put it back into the body with a little chopped parsley, mixed with a small lump of fresh butter, salt, pepper ; then sew the belly up, for fear the contents should drop out, and broil all together. When the carp is done, cut off the thread and mask the fish with caper sauce. There are plenty of carp at Hampton Court Palace and in the fishponds of many country houses, but the fish is not much sought after by modern epicures. It has sometimes a muddy flavour. However, I have given the recipe for the benefit of fresh-water fishermen. Roach, dace, tench, perch, and all other fresh-water fish are dressed as a kind of " bouillabaisse," or stew, omitting the oil and the garlic ; but with plenty of small onions and high seasoning to suppress the possibly muddy taste. 128. Carp au Bleu au Court Bouillon. Take a very fine carp, cut off the gills, but keep the tongue ; then make as small an opening as possible to empty it, and wash it well till no blood is left. Now boil some vinegar, and when boiling-hot pour it over the fish, that the scales may crisp. Next wrap the carp up in a cloth, and stew it in brown broth. When done, drain it, and serve it with anchovy sauce and capers. 129. To Stew Carp. Scale and clean a brace of carp, reserving the liver and roe ; pour over the fish in a deep pan a pint of vinegar, which may be elder vinegar, if the flavour is preferred, with a little mace, three cloves, some salt and Jamaica pepper, two onions sliced, a faggot of parsley, basil, thyme, and marjoram ; let the fish soak an hour, then put them in a stew-pan with the vinegar and other things, the liver chopped, a pint of Madeira, and three pints of veal stock ; stew them an hour or two, according to their size; take them out and put them over a pan of hot water to keep warm while a sauce is made thus : — Strain the liquor, and add the yolks of three beaten eggs, half a pint of cream, a large spoonful of flour and a quarter of a pound of butter ; stir it constantly, and just before putting it over the carp, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Boil or fry the roe. This sauce may also be served with plain boiled carp dished in a napkin. 130. Roast Pike. Wash, clean, and scrape off the scales, cut oft" the fins, and carefully take out the inside; stuff the fish with the crumb of two rolls, a quarter of a pound of butter, pepper,