The thorough good cook

till you have used all the oil ; still keeping the sauce rather thick, but not stiff. Add a teaspoonful of gherkins, chopped fine, half a dozen chopped capers, the same of chopped shallots and parsley ; two teaspoonfuls of French mustard of the lightest colour, a dust of cayenne pepper, a tiny bit of sugar, and more salt if required. As for salt and pepper, I conceive it to be impertinent and useless to prescribe the exact quantities to be used. A cook who knows her business is quite aware of what is meant by a " dust " or a " pinch " of this or that condiment. If she does not know her business, let her go and excel somewhere else. I need only say that tartar sauce should be rather highly seasoned. If, Lady Housekeeper, you are rebellious against oil, as many ladies are, send up your fried fish with shrimp sauce, which will be pink and light enough to present a contrast to the black butter, or any dark sauce, which may precede it. 68. Tomato. Crush half a dozen (more or less, as required) very ripe tomatoes, and put them into a stew-pan over a quick fire, so as to sweat the water from them; then put them on a sieve, that the water may drain from them ; slice three or four shallots, and put them into the stew-pan with an ounce of ham and a dozen peppercorns ; fry these a few minutes, then add the tomatoes ; stir over a brisk fire till the moisture has evaporated ; then add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 14), with a little consomme (p. 77) : let this simmer a quarter of an hour ; rub it through a tammy and put it into a stew-pan, thinning it sufficiently with consomme for the scum and butter to rise. When well skimmed, season with a little glaze and a little lemon-juice. 69. Toulouse. Mix a dessertspoonful of flour with a little butter till quite smooth. Add some good gravy, and let it boil for ten minutes, taking care to stir all the time. Add some mushrooms lightly fried in butter; some truffles cut up in small pieces, morels, cocks-combs and cocks' kidneys, a little parsley chopped very line, a pinch of pepper, and the juice of a lemon. 70. "Turned" (Tournee). Put three or four pieces of ham into a stew-pan with a little butter and some champignons ; set it on a moderate fire, stirring till the butter begins to look clear ; add some brown sauce (No. 14); put to it three tablespoonfuls of strained consomme (p. 77), stir in, and keep adding more, at intervals, until you have as much as you require. Set it on the fire and let it boil slowly, stirring constantly. When reduced to the proper thickness (which is that of good melted butter), strain it through a tammy, to use when wanted. 71. Universal. Into a pint of broth put a glass of white wine, salt, pepper, a little zest {i.e. the grated peel of a lemon), a bay-leaf, and a dash of lemon-juice; let this macerate by the side of the fire for eight hours, and serve, poured over meat, game, fish, or vegetables. It will keep good for many days. 72. Vegetable (Jus Maigre de Hacines). Put in a saucepan a piece of butter or a little oil, a carrot, a turnip and an onion all cut into dice, two heads of celery ;