The " stock," as it is technically called, may be made either of fish or of meat. The former is perhaps the more elegant, and is, besides, suited to meagi-e days ; the latter is supposed to be the more rich and nourishing. Beef, veal, or the lean of mutton, may all be used for fish-stock. "When made of fish, a skate, a cod's head, haddocks, whitings, eels, gudgeons,, flounders, and other white fish are used, and also the heads, fins, and trimmings of the fish which are to be dressed. As fish-stock soon becomes sour, it should not be made till it is to be used. Boil the fish of which you make the stock in two quarts of water, Avith a couple of onions, a piece of lemon-peel, and a faggot of sweet herbs. Skim the liquor carefully, and strain it. If the fish soup is to be brown, the fish Avhich makes the stock may be browned in a frying-paa before boilmg. Catsup is generally put to brown fish soup. 44. Fish Soup. Procure three pounds of very fresh grey mullet, clean them well, and sprinkle a little salt over them ; then put six ounces of the best olive oil into a steAv-pan, Avith a pound-and-a- quarter of finely chopped onions, and sufficient salt ; put the pan on the fire till the onions are partly broAvned; then add a handful of Avashed parsley, and the same of mint, both chopped fine, and fry them a little, together Avith the onions ; noAv add a pint of the best A\-ine-vinegar, and two or three pints of hot or cold Avater, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes ; then pass the liquor through a sieve into another saucepan, and place the fish in it ; put it on the fire, and let it simmer till the fish is done ; then take it out and extract all the bones, cut the fish in pieces and put these into the tureen ; pass the liquor again through a cloth into a stCAv-pan ; put into a basin the H 98 THE THOROUGH GOOD COOK. yolks of three or four eggs, the juice of one or two lemons, and half a teacupful of water previously coloured with two drachms of saffron : beat up all together, and add it gradu- ally to the liquor ; set it on a moderate fire for ten or fifteen minutes, stirring it all the time with a wooden spoon, and without permitting it to boil; then pour it over the fish, sj^rinkle a little cinnamon and a pinch of Nepaul pepper✪ Fish Soup over, and serve. Turbots, soles, and flounders, may be done the same way. — Good, but dear. 45. Fish Soup a la Parisienue. Make, with the flesh of a large whiting, some forcemeat balls ; take off the fillets of two soles, and an eel ; trim them into scollops, and throw a little salt over them ; make an essence with the usual roots, herbs, and spices, and add the trimmings of the fish, with half a bottle of Chablis or Grave wine, and two large spoonfuls of fish broth ; when boiled nearly an hour, strain it into a saute-pan, slightly buttered, in which you have placed the scollops of fish, having first washed and drained them on a napkin ; let them boil ten minutes, take out the fillets of soles, and lay them in the tureen, but let the eels cook for five minutes longer ; then drain and add these to the soles, to which also add the forcemeat moulded in a teaspoon, Avith thirty crayfish tails, and the same number of small mushrooms✪ Fish Soup a la Parisienne.

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The " stock," as it is technically called, may be made either of fish or of meat. The former is perhaps the more elegant, and is, besides, suited to meagi-e days ; the latter is supposed to be the more rich and nourishing. Beef, veal, or the lean of mutton, may all be used for fish-stock. "When made of fish, a skate, a cod's head, haddocks, whitings, eels, gudgeons,, flounders, and other white fish are used, and also the heads, fins, and trimmings of the fish which are to be dressed. As fish-stock soon becomes sour, it should not be made till it is to be used. Boil the fish of which you make the stock in two quarts of water, Avith a couple of onions, a piece of lemon-peel, and a faggot of sweet herbs. Skim the liquor carefully, and strain it. If the fish soup is to be brown, the fish Avhich makes the stock may be browned in a frying-paa before boilmg. Catsup is generally put to brown fish soup. 44. Fish Soup. Procure three pounds of very fresh grey mullet, clean them well, and sprinkle a little salt over them ; then put six ounces of the best olive oil into a steAv-pan, Avith a pound-and-a- quarter of finely chopped onions, and sufficient salt ; put the pan on the fire till the onions are partly broAvned; then add a handful of Avashed parsley, and the same of mint, both chopped fine, and fry them a little, together Avith the onions ; noAv add a pint of the best A\-ine-vinegar, and two or three pints of hot or cold Avater, and boil for twenty or thirty minutes ; then pass the liquor through a sieve into another saucepan, and place the fish in it ; put it on the fire, and let it simmer till the fish is done ; then take it out and extract all the bones, cut the fish in pieces and put these into the tureen ; pass the liquor again through a cloth into a stCAv-pan ; put into a basin the H 98 THE THOROUGH GOOD COOK. yolks of three or four eggs, the juice of one or two lemons, and half a teacupful of water previously coloured with two drachms of saffron : beat up all together, and add it gradu- ally to the liquor ; set it on a moderate fire for ten or fifteen minutes, stirring it all the time with a wooden spoon, and without permitting it to boil; then pour it over the fish, sj^rinkle a little cinnamon and a pinch of Nepaul pepper over, and serve. Turbots, soles, and flounders, may be done the same way. — Good, but dear. 45. Fish Soup a la Parisienue. Make, with the flesh of a large whiting, some forcemeat balls ; take off the fillets of two soles, and an eel ; trim them into scollops, and throw a little salt over them ; make an essence with the usual roots, herbs, and spices, and add the trimmings of the fish, with half a bottle of Chablis or Grave wine, and two large spoonfuls of fish broth ; when boiled nearly an hour, strain it into a saute-pan, slightly buttered, in which you have placed the scollops of fish, having first washed and drained them on a napkin ; let them boil ten minutes, take out the fillets of soles, and lay them in the tureen, but let the eels cook for five minutes longer ; then drain and add these to the soles, to which also add the forcemeat moulded in a teaspoon, Avith thirty crayfish tails, and the same number of small mushrooms.

The thorough good cook