FoodNetArchive

Cooking for profit

1886

Page 363

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
On this occasion the « birds " — as ban viveurs love to call them, although terrapin is used as fish by the most devout Catholics in the severest or Lenten time — were plentiful, and our darkey, having put us ashore, very soon returned with a boat containing his mate, nets, sounding-poles, rakes and other impedimenta of his calling, a business that pays the catcher, according to luck, from $5 to $50 a week. The haul, which was watched by a luckless fisherman with consider- able envy, proved a good one, the ground being literally cut from under the feet of the terrapin, and there were vast expansive grins, accom- panied by chuckles loud and deep, as the well-laden boat rowed back with its precious freight to the quaint old capital of Maryland. Terrapins are jealously guarded by the law, and a stringent Act exists which protects diamond-back terrapin in the waters of the State of Maryland. The fishing opens on the first of November and terminates on the thirty-first of March. It is unlawful to catch any terrapin of a size less than five inches on the bot- tom of the shell, or to interfere with or destroy the diamond-back terra- pin's eggs. It is stated that thirty years ago the dealers found it diffi- cult to sell terrapin at $6 a dozen, and now the difliculty lies in obtain- ing them at any price. Their num- bers are rapidly decreasing, and un- less some effective protective means are forthwith taken, a terrapin will indeed prove a rara avis in terris. Sliders are plentiful in the tribut- aries of the Chesapeake, as also are "snappers." Turtles are fished for in this way: The fisherman plants poles, sometimes a hundred, in the middle of the stream ; to each pole he fastens a line, to which is attached a hook baited with salted eel. The snapper grabs bait and hook, and is hauled up, always vicious and despe- rate. The fishermen around these trib- utaries take a thousand pounds' weight of turtle a week, which they sell at ten cents a pound. The snap- pers' eggs, about the size of marbles, are considered a great delicacy. Apropos of turtle and terrapin, the following is the menu of a perfect Maryland dinner, as arranged by "one of the knowing ones": "Four small oysters from Lyn- haven Bay; terrapin a la Maryland; canvas-back ducks; a small salad of crab and lettuce. Vegetables — baked Irish potatoes; fried hominy cakes and plain celery." — Magazine, THE CONSUMPTION OF ICE CREAM. Enormous quantities of ice cream are consumed every day in New York city in warm wether. On the Fourth of July the supply, though unusually large, was nearly exhausted by ten o'clock at night. Ice cream, like ice, in old times used to be con- sidered a luxury in New York in- stead of a necessity, and old Gotham- ites recall with pleasure the memories of Vauxhall Garden, Niblo's, Castle Garden and other open-air resorts where ice cream, ices and Roman punches were served during the dog days. In those days a quarter of a dollai was considered a fair evening's investment for a young man treating a single fair friend, as the highest price for ice cream was "sixpence" a plate, and an ice was thrown in S20 COOKING FOR PROFIT. ioT a "shilling." A first-rate Prin- dpse cigar for two cents would top off the treat.