The old times have changed and the cool gardens have vanished. Ice cream is now considered as much of a necessity as ice, and is served as regularly at the tables of private families as at hotels and restaurants. Gardens have given place to "sa- loons," where ice cream, ices and cakes are exclusively served. Some of the most aristocratic of these saloons are elegantly and expensively furnished, and some are in the rear of bakeries and confectionary stores. From Fifth avenue to Grand street, however, all are alike in having marble-top tables and one or more gilt mirrors. It is a singular fact that every ice cream saloon, whether of high or low degree, has a gilt- framed mirror and marble-top tables, and palm-leaf fans are also much affected. It is not merely the wealthy or those in moderate circumstances who eat ice cream. From the costly pist- ache or Neapolitaine brick there is a gradual descent to ice cream at ten cents a plate on the extreme east and west sides. Then by a sudden bound an open-air tariff of one or two cents a plate is reached, so that the cooling cream is within the means of every street urchin. The plates are small and no spoons are furnished, and the ice cream is sometimes a trifle gritty, but still it is ice cream. A large manufacturer said : " You might as well try to find out how many cigan are smoked or how many cups of coffee or tea are used every day as try to find out how much ice cream is consumed. I can tell you how much I sell daily, but there are several other large manu- facturers. We supply a good many hotels and restaurants, but many other hotels and restaurants make their own ice cream. We supply hundreds of private families, but hundreds more have their own ice cream freezers. You see it's a big business. What are the prices ? Well, the regular standard price for ice cream is forty cents for a single quart, but church fairs, picnics and excursions are supplied in large quantities at twenty.five cents a quart. The regular retail price is fifteen cents a plate, but many fairs and picnics sell small plates for ten cents. Ours is a good, pure article of cream; but, of course, fancy ice creams are sold at wholesale and retail for more than double our rates. We sell to customers outside of the city, and have now an order for five hundred quarts to go some distance out on Long Island. " The sale of ice cream varies, of course, with the weather, but it is a staple article of consumption all the year round. Some families use twenty to thirty quarts a week, and even then their youngsters will come and buy it in boxes. Healthy ? Why, there is nothing more healthy than pure ice cream. Many people actu- ally eat it at breakfast. Vanilla is the standard flavor, but we sell large quantities of strawberry, chocolate and other flavon." ANALYTICAL INDEX. -•^The Numbers Refer to the Recipe and Not to the Pages. About whipped cream, 863. AUemande sauce, 848. Almond cake, 285. cream cake, 1079- macaroons, 457- rings and fingers, 463. Andalusian soup, 801. Angel food cake, 2. Angelica punch, 128. Apples, fried, 74- Apple pie, 25, 926, 178. dumplings, baked, 69. cobbler, 400- shortcake, 398. Apricots a la Colbert, 875. Apricot ice, 164. ice cream, 950- Arabian biscoscha, 1059. Art in cutting eggs, 858. mincing parsley, 859. Artichokes to cook, 160. Asparagus on toast, 66. Aspic jelly, 692-

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The old times have changed and the cool gardens have vanished. Ice cream is now considered as much of a necessity as ice, and is served as regularly at the tables of private families as at hotels and restaurants. Gardens have given place to "saloons," where ice cream, ices and cakes are exclusively served. Some of the most aristocratic of these saloons are elegantly and expensively furnished, and some are in the rear of bakeries and confectionary stores. From Fifth avenue to Grand street, however, all are alike in having marble-top tables and one or more gilt mirrors. It is a singular fact that every ice cream saloon, whether of high or low degree, has a giltframed mirror and marble-top tables, and palm-leaf fans are also much affected. It is not merely the wealthy or those in moderate circumstances who eat ice cream. From the costly pistache or Neapolitaine brick there is a gradual descent to ice cream at ten cents a plate on the extreme east and west sides. Then by a sudden bound an open-air tariff of one or two cents a plate is reached, so that the cooling cream is within the means of every street urchin. The plates are small and no spoons are furnished, and the ice cream is sometimes a trifle gritty, but still it is ice cream. A large manufacturer said : " You might as well try to find out how many cigars are smoked or how many cups of coffee or tea are used every day as try to find out how much ice cream is consumed. I can tell you how much I sell daily, but there are several other large manufacturers. We supply a good many hotels and restaurants, but many other hotels and restaurants make their own ice cream. We supply hundreds of private families, but hundreds more have their own ice cream freezers. You see it's a big business. What are the prices ? Well, the regular standard price for ice cream is forty cents for a single quart, but church fairs, picnics and excursions are supplied in large quantities at twenty-five cents a quart. The regular retail price is fifteen cents a plate, but many fairs and picnics sell small plates for ten cents. Ours is a good, pure article of cream; but, of course, fancy ice creams are sold at wholesale and retail for more than double our rates. We sell to customers outside of the city, and have now an order for five hundred quarts to go some distance out on Long Island. " The sale of ice cream varies, of course, with the weather, but it is a staple article of consumption all the year round. Some families use twenty to thirty quarts a week, and even then their youngsters will come and buy it in boxes. Healthy ? Why, there is nothing more healthy than pure ice cream. Many people actually eat it at breakfast. Vanilla is the standard flavor, but we sell large quantities of strawberry, chocolate and other flavors." ANALYTICAL INDEX. -•^The Numbers Refer to the Recipe and Not to the Pages. About whipped cream, 863. AUemande sauce, 848. Almond cake, 285. cream cake, 1079- macaroons, 457- rings and fingers, 463. Andalusian soup, 801. Angel food cake, 2. Angelica punch, 128. Apples, fried, 74- Apple pie, 25, 926, 178. dumplings, baked, 69. cobbler, 400- shortcake, 398. Apricots a la Colbert, 875. Apricot ice, 164. ice cream, 950- Arabian biscuits, 1059. Art in cutting eggs, 858. mincing parsley, 859. Artichokes to cook, 160. Asparagus on toast, 66. Aspic jelly, 692-

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